EMSE- Gardanne and a Brief Trip to Arles

The rest of our days in the Provence area were spent visiting (Alice, on Monday) EMSE-Gardanne, a concentration camp museum in an old tile factory (Randy, on Monday) and the historic small city of Arles (both, on Tuesday).  Alice's main professional objective for the south of France was to reconnect with Professors Claude Yugma and Stephane Dauzere-Peres, whom she met at the 2012 research colloquium that they hosted at their campus.  EMSE is a branch of a mining and technical university that is in Gardanne, France (just southeast of Aix en Provence) and which specializes in microelectronics.  The campus is small but the laboratories are world class and the students and faculty interact heavily with the industries in the region.  Alice is hoping to develop a National Science Foundation proposal with EMSE that would bring cohorts of U.S. students to their campus each summer to conduct research.

The compact but excellent campus of EMSE in Gardanne

Some of the seminar audience - mostly graduate students and a few faculty members

Stephane Dauzere-Peres (left) and ClaudeYugma  (right) treated Alice to a nice lunch after the seminar and laboratory tour

The starter was shrimp and apple salad

The men had the daily beef special while Alice had fish and vegetables - all delicious

Desert was irresistible - amazing chocolate mousse

Randy enjoyed his several hours learning about the situation near Gardanne during World War II, made even more interesting by the fact that his father was in the military in France during that time and may have even been in the building that Randy visited.

Evening found us eating at a local Lyonaise style food place, Les Deux Bouchons, recommended by our host family.  This proved pretty tasty.  We split a Lyon style lardon salad which was mighty delicious.  Alice had a cheese and mushroom homemade ravioli while Randy chose a beef dish.  We drank a glass of Beaujolais wine each as recommended by our host, Gerard.  The waiter managed to stain Randy's shirt and jacket with some spilled meat juice so the friendly owner served us some digestive liquor made from mint and verbena from his garden followed by a fairly old Armagnac. 

The quaint restaurant in the nearby village of Calas

The interior - it got fuller with diners later - the French in this area eat rather late

Alice's main course of ravioli stuffed with cheese and served in a truffle sauce with grilled vegetables

Our last full day in the area was spent visiting Arles, about 45 minutes away.  This is well known for its Roman ruins and being the home, for a number of years, of Vincent Van Gogh.  We especially wanted to visit because at this time the museum is hosting a special Van Gogh Live exhibit that had recently opened.  We found Arles pretty nice and liked the exhibit but then left to explore some backgrounds.  We happened upon a road running east from Arles to Saint-Martin-de-Crau that was apparently the main road until the highway was built.  This road was lined with huge trees for many miles and was breathtaking and unique in that regard.  We stopped along the way for a picnic in the car (it was exceedingly windy).

The Republic Square in Arles with its old but plain Egyptian obelisk

Lion detail on the fountain which forms the foundation of the obelisk

The well known church of Arles - Saint Trophime - which is noted for its carvings.  This church dates from the 12th century and was closed for lunch (about three hours) when we visited

Carving over the portal

More detailed and solemn (if not scary) carvings

The exhibit at the Van Gogh Foundation which had recently opened

Photos were allowed without flash - this picture dates from his Netherlands years

A self portrait from the Netherlands years

This still life does not seem Van Gogh like but is from the master

A simple but effective Van Gogh painting

This is by Renoir (and is Randy's favorite painting of the exhibit)

One of the Japanese woodblock prints that inspired Van Gogh.  He apparently viewed Arles as Japan like.  The many woodblock prints in the exhibit were identical to those in Van Gogh's personal collection.

Another of the Japanese woodblock prints from Japan

A "zoave" by Van Gogh shows his use of color to advantage

Painting of the "Yellow House" where Van Gogh resided with Paul Gaugin and others during a brief artistic period in Arles

An arresting rural scene

A tour de force of Van Gogh Arles period paintings

Randy on one of the authentic ancient streets of Arles (and there are many)

A depiction of how the Roman Amphitheater in Arles originally looked

In the Middle Ages, more than 200 houses were squeezed in the site and four watchtowers were added (of which three are still standing)

A view of the amphitheater with church spire beyond

The structure was very clean and fairly well preserved

The day, as usual, was spectacular with blue skies and warm but not hot temperatures in the afternoon and cool evenings

Alice in front of the Roman amphitheater in Arles

A panorama from the amphitheater site

The place is currently used for bull fights - nice that it is still used but not nice that it is for hurting animals

A rather sad sight - a Roman column stuck in parking lot

Remains of the Roman theater where performances are still given

Like many sites in Turkey there are a few columns standing which give you a glimpse of the glory of the place 2000 years ago

We saw a dead ringer for General Charles de Gaulle on the streets of Arles - note the hat

The long and incredibly beautiful stretch of tree lined roadway leading east of Arles to Saint-Martin-de-Crau - take this, not the motorway