The Big Adventure - Algeria

The most adventurous part of our trip happened on May 16 when we flew (via Air France) from Marseille to Algiers, Algeria.  Algeria is not a place that most people go, especially Americans, but we had made a close Algerian connection in the fall of 2012 when Rafik Medjoudj came to study with me for a few months and lived with us.  He was like a family member and we grew very close to him.  He is not an Arab, but a Berber of the Kabylie people.  This group of people are Muslim but quite liberal and very ethnically diverse with much northern European blood.  There central city is Bejaia, a port city of Algeria east of Algiers.  These people lived traditionally in the Atlas mountains which surround Bejaia.  We had obtained our Algerian visas quite easily from the consulate in New York (by mail of course) and took the quick flight across the Med for six nights (five in Bejaia and one in Algiers).  We were hosted by Rafik's university and family.

Rafik and his oldest brother Rabah (Rafik is the youngest of 11 children!) picked us up in Algiers and we took the four or so hour drive to Bejaia.  Some of this was by good highway but the latter part of the trip was over a two lane road that was busy and not the best.  We stopped for a rest stop along the way and enjoyed the scenery and sunny weather.  The special treat was the series of stork nests with the storks ensconced in them along the way. 

The surprisingly modern and comfortable airport of Algiers

Our very special Algerian - Rafik Medjoudj

His eldest brother, the friendly and urbane Rabah Medjoudj

Alice and Randy were so happy to be reunited with their Algerian "son" Rafik

One of the storks with its massive nest along the road to Bejaia

Randy, Rafik and Rabah enjoy a cold drink along our route

Our hotel in Bejaia (the Royal) was basic but clean and had a good restaurant (as we were to find out through frequent meals there).  There was wireless internet (yea!) and AC.  The bed was hard and the pillows lumpy but the water pressure was good and size of the room was O.K.  In short, it was a big step down after the comforts of Europe but it was acceptable.  We were surprised that the concept of helping with luggage has not yet reached Algeria - you are on your own to get your stuff to the room.  And, should you be mobility challenged (we are not), you are out of luck!

The Hotel Royal in Bejaia - we were a little surprised at its basic quality but found it reasonably agreeable after we got used to the change in standards from the U.S. or Europe

We took a brief evening city tour by car with Rabah and Rafik then ate dinner at the hotel with Rabah (Rafik left for home).  The dinner was tasty and we sampled our first bottle of Algerian wine. 

The port of Bejaia in the evening - the port is both a container port on one side and a petroleum port on the other

Another view from a stop in the old city above

Alice and Randy prepare to enjoy their adventure in Algeria

Alice was happy to expand her wine knowledge by sampling this red from Medea - not the finest but definitely drinkable.  We finished it all.

Alice enjoyed her hearts of palm salad at the Hotel Royal restaurant

The fish soup was made even tastier by the addition of French baguette topped with garlic and harissa mayonnaise - yum!

The fish platter that we shared for dinner - very delicious grilled fresh fish from the Med

The Best Place to Stay in the Provence Region and a Shout Out to Peugeot

This post is a tribute both to our bed and breakfast near Marseille and to the Peugeot automobile.  First, our B&B was one we found in 2012 when searching for a place to stay near Gardanne (site of EMSE).  I had contacted someone who rents out part of their villa for holiday goers.  He wrote back that his villa was too big (and too expensive) for us but his neighbor was renovating two bedrooms for a B&B.  I corresponded with Nicole at that time regarding staying in one of her bedrooms but ultimately we chose a place actually in Gardanne (instead of nearby) and with a kitchen.  

When I considered again this year where to stay, I dug out the old email and wrote to Nicole.  She was delighted and we booked four nights with her and her husband, Gerard.  They live in Les Pennes de Mirabeau which is situated between Marseille and Gardanne (and also near Aix).  She gave me a good price.

Well, the place and the experience proved amazing!  The villa is in a beautiful area - convenient to everything but secluded and private.  Their house looks out on a pine forest reserve.  There is a swimming pool (too cold to use now).  We took their bedroom with the double bed but no one was next door in the triple bedded room.  The room was so comfortable and looked out on the yard and forest.

The best part was Gerard and Nicole themselves.  Gerard cannot speak much English (though he knows Spanish) but Nicole speaks very well.  They are interesting, hospitable and knowledgeable.  And, caring.  The breakfasts were laid out with extreme consideration and we enjoyed all of our conversations with the couple.  We shared some wine in the late afternoons and in the evenings occasionally.  It was interested to hear about their lives and activities (both are retired those Nicole consults with universities and with companies).  Besides consulting, Nicole is physically active (and so trim!) and cooks fantastically and takes care sometimes of their three grandchildren.  Gerard is into wine (I will drink to that) and also leads a hiking group each week.  He is constantly working on their garden and yard and pool area.  They are an inspiration to the relaxed yet productive lifestyle.  We were their first American guests and they were interested in learning about the "real" U.S. 

They recommended those good restaurants that I already blogged about (Le Riserve and Les Deux Bouchons).  

Their cat, Orgeat, was elusive but sweet and beautiful.  Their garden was amazing (see the photos) and so relaxing.

In short, the price was about 1/2 or less of a decent hotel in the area and the experience was an order of magnitude better.  As a final kicker, they are quite close to the Marseille airport which made flying out super easy.  

Nicole and Gerard, we cannot wait to visit you again, and thank you so much for your hospitality!

Readers, if you visit the Provence area, you must stay here - see the page of this blog which lists the places we are staying in Europe for the website and contact information.

We were lucky to arrive at Nicole and Gerard's during the blooming week of their wisteria

Chez Gerard and Nicole in Les Pennes de Mirabeau

Detail of the glorious wisteria

Our hostess, Nicole

Orgeat - the family cat

The herb garden

The back of the villa - our bedroom is the upper right

The pine forest preserve behind the house

Their very small olive tree

One of the beautiful blooming plants in the backyard

Another view of the villa

Nicole in her kitchen

Randy chills out in our bedroom in Provence

The bathroom with its good shower

One of their small grapevines in the backyard

Gerard and Nicole - two of our very favorite French people!

Finally, Hertz rental cars gave a us a 2008 model Peugeot in Nice.  We thought actually for a few weeks it was a 2008 year model (which we were amazed at the good condition and low mileage for a car six years old).  We found later that it is the model number and we had a virtually new car.  Anyway, after I deciphered the French User's Manual and changed the menus to English and figured out the Cruise Control operation (so weird), it was primo.  We had no troubles, we could charge things up using the USB which was built in, we could listen to music via my cell phone, and we could also listen to the pseudo-satellite radio which it came with.  It was the right size (small enough for European streets and parking places but big enough for our luggage and comfort).  We had never driven or even experienced a Peugeot before, but we are now converts.  Bravo, Peugeot and Merci!

Our faithful Peugeot 2008 - it took us everywhere in comfort and style

EMSE- Gardanne and a Brief Trip to Arles

The rest of our days in the Provence area were spent visiting (Alice, on Monday) EMSE-Gardanne, a concentration camp museum in an old tile factory (Randy, on Monday) and the historic small city of Arles (both, on Tuesday).  Alice's main professional objective for the south of France was to reconnect with Professors Claude Yugma and Stephane Dauzere-Peres, whom she met at the 2012 research colloquium that they hosted at their campus.  EMSE is a branch of a mining and technical university that is in Gardanne, France (just southeast of Aix en Provence) and which specializes in microelectronics.  The campus is small but the laboratories are world class and the students and faculty interact heavily with the industries in the region.  Alice is hoping to develop a National Science Foundation proposal with EMSE that would bring cohorts of U.S. students to their campus each summer to conduct research.

The compact but excellent campus of EMSE in Gardanne

Some of the seminar audience - mostly graduate students and a few faculty members

Stephane Dauzere-Peres (left) and ClaudeYugma  (right) treated Alice to a nice lunch after the seminar and laboratory tour

The starter was shrimp and apple salad

The men had the daily beef special while Alice had fish and vegetables - all delicious

Desert was irresistible - amazing chocolate mousse

Randy enjoyed his several hours learning about the situation near Gardanne during World War II, made even more interesting by the fact that his father was in the military in France during that time and may have even been in the building that Randy visited.

Evening found us eating at a local Lyonaise style food place, Les Deux Bouchons, recommended by our host family.  This proved pretty tasty.  We split a Lyon style lardon salad which was mighty delicious.  Alice had a cheese and mushroom homemade ravioli while Randy chose a beef dish.  We drank a glass of Beaujolais wine each as recommended by our host, Gerard.  The waiter managed to stain Randy's shirt and jacket with some spilled meat juice so the friendly owner served us some digestive liquor made from mint and verbena from his garden followed by a fairly old Armagnac. 

The quaint restaurant in the nearby village of Calas

The interior - it got fuller with diners later - the French in this area eat rather late

Alice's main course of ravioli stuffed with cheese and served in a truffle sauce with grilled vegetables

Our last full day in the area was spent visiting Arles, about 45 minutes away.  This is well known for its Roman ruins and being the home, for a number of years, of Vincent Van Gogh.  We especially wanted to visit because at this time the museum is hosting a special Van Gogh Live exhibit that had recently opened.  We found Arles pretty nice and liked the exhibit but then left to explore some backgrounds.  We happened upon a road running east from Arles to Saint-Martin-de-Crau that was apparently the main road until the highway was built.  This road was lined with huge trees for many miles and was breathtaking and unique in that regard.  We stopped along the way for a picnic in the car (it was exceedingly windy).

The Republic Square in Arles with its old but plain Egyptian obelisk

Lion detail on the fountain which forms the foundation of the obelisk

The well known church of Arles - Saint Trophime - which is noted for its carvings.  This church dates from the 12th century and was closed for lunch (about three hours) when we visited

Carving over the portal

More detailed and solemn (if not scary) carvings

The exhibit at the Van Gogh Foundation which had recently opened

Photos were allowed without flash - this picture dates from his Netherlands years

A self portrait from the Netherlands years

This still life does not seem Van Gogh like but is from the master

A simple but effective Van Gogh painting

This is by Renoir (and is Randy's favorite painting of the exhibit)

One of the Japanese woodblock prints that inspired Van Gogh.  He apparently viewed Arles as Japan like.  The many woodblock prints in the exhibit were identical to those in Van Gogh's personal collection.

Another of the Japanese woodblock prints from Japan

A "zoave" by Van Gogh shows his use of color to advantage

Painting of the "Yellow House" where Van Gogh resided with Paul Gaugin and others during a brief artistic period in Arles

An arresting rural scene

A tour de force of Van Gogh Arles period paintings

Randy on one of the authentic ancient streets of Arles (and there are many)

A depiction of how the Roman Amphitheater in Arles originally looked

In the Middle Ages, more than 200 houses were squeezed in the site and four watchtowers were added (of which three are still standing)

A view of the amphitheater with church spire beyond

The structure was very clean and fairly well preserved

The day, as usual, was spectacular with blue skies and warm but not hot temperatures in the afternoon and cool evenings

Alice in front of the Roman amphitheater in Arles

A panorama from the amphitheater site

The place is currently used for bull fights - nice that it is still used but not nice that it is for hurting animals

A rather sad sight - a Roman column stuck in parking lot

Remains of the Roman theater where performances are still given

Like many sites in Turkey there are a few columns standing which give you a glimpse of the glory of the place 2000 years ago

We saw a dead ringer for General Charles de Gaulle on the streets of Arles - note the hat

The long and incredibly beautiful stretch of tree lined roadway leading east of Arles to Saint-Martin-de-Crau - take this, not the motorway