The Big Trip - A Voyage of Discovery Around the Med: Far Eastern Turkey - The Beauty of the Lake Van Region - Part 2

We arrived to Tatvan around 8:30 PM and after some misdirections we found the hotel that Mehmet Kurt had reserved for us. Mehmet Kurt was Alice's master's student at University of Pittsburgh many years ago. He is a career Turkish Army officer. He also started his doctorate through the distance learning program at Auburn University. He and his wife, Baris, and daughter were relocated to Tatvan last August from their previous long term post in Ankara.

Some Tatvan local boys tried to give us directions to the hotel (although they were wrong). They goofed around a lot before posing for the blog and then chased our car when we left.

It was a minor religious holiday that day so the restaurant was a little short of food and service (we arrived late). Nevertheless, we ate at the "Family Dining Room," a smallish room with cartoons blaring from the T.V. on the wall. It was full of, well, families. The other dining room catered only to men. Obviously, Tatvan is a conservative town. We had Adana kebab while the Kurts ate some local fried fish (there was no more Adana kebab for them). We enjoyed seeing this friendly and urbane family again. Afterwards we retired to Casa Kurt on the military base. While the apartments did not look so good on the outside, the interiors were surprisingly large and pleasant. Until this past year, all military people could not leave the base due to security concerns (the Kurdish unrest and terrorism) but as things are quiet now, the travel restrictions have eased. However, the Kurts were still not that pleased to be living in a conservative backwater with few amenities and low quality schools for their young daughter. However, we reminded them that the region has its advantages in natural beauty and history.

The family Kurt - Mehmet, Baris and cute daughter

In the family section of the restaurant - note the cartoons in the background and the picture of a baby on the wall

The restaurant brought us very tart lemon water to cleanse our pallet after the main course

Mehmet settles in for tea at Casa Kurt on the Tatvan army base

Mehmet Kurt chills as well in his comfortable home

Baris in her kitchen - she served us up some very nice desserts!

As a disclaimer for the rest of this post, the photographs do not do these places or sights justice. They are far more impressive and awesome in person.

After an early breakfast the next day, we headed back east along the southern shore road to see the Armenian ruins of Saint Thomas of Gandzak Monastery (Gandzak being the old name of the nearby village of Altinsac). This is not in so many guidebooks and if it does get a mention, there is not much said except that the views are fabulous (they are). The guidebooks differ as to how easy or how difficult it is to reach the place and none were very accurate in that regard (more on this issue later). The weather was perfect and, as usual, Randy drove, Mehmet navigated and Alice rode in the backseat.

The ruin is on a high hill top not too far from the village of Altinsac, on a peninsula just west of Akdamar Island. We took a small road about 10 kilometers from the main coast road at the village of Gevas and then it became a gravel road. The road was not too bad though and was relatively recent. Before that, residents had to cross an arduous (apparently) road over the mountains. This new road was along the coast and the views were literally breathtaking. Mehmet got directions from the locals in Altinsac and we continued on for another few kilometers. Then, we took a dirt track towards the monastery, viewable on the distant hill top. The car gave up after not too long on the dirt road so we rolled it back a way and parked it. Fortified with water, we set off across country (we could find no path) up the hill. The hill is strewn with larges rocks, low bushes and lots of wild flowers. There were plenty of butterflies and caterpillars. If the climb was not so difficult, we could have really enjoyed the nature.

The view along Lake Van looking towards the village of Altinsac

This is as far as the car would make it. Our quest is see at the top of the hill. Note - it is much steeper and further than it looks!

Looking back from the hill towards Lake Van with the solo gravel road connecting the remote villages

Mehmet brought his handheld GPS (he took it everywhere) so he could track how many more meters in altitude we needed to climb. It was the equivalent (in just vertical distance) of at least a 30 story building. We rested briefly a few times and finally made the summit. Needless to say, no one else was around and we only saw a dolmus (small public van) on the gravel road far below once. It took about 45 minutes or a bit longer of pretty strenuous climbing to the reach the top. Granted, none of us are super fit and we are novice climbers, but it is still quite a task to get to the monastery for anyone.

Mehmet gallantly carried Alice's water bottle on the climb up

Randy takes a break

The monastery looms above

Alice was smiling but inside she was not sure she was going to make it

Detail of lichen covered rock

Randy plays mountain climber

It is getting closer...

And closer...

The monastery was not as beautiful as the church on Akdamar Island by a long shot. It is unrestored to boot. But, it is a mournful and expressive remnant of the Armenian culture which was widespread in the region before the early 1900's. The location and view could not be bettered. The site dates from the 11th century or so. Mehmet found a small graveyard some distance behind the church. We enjoyed the views and explored the small interior of the church before heading down. Instead of venturing cross country again we went down using the track that tractors or off road four wheel drive vehicles can navigate to a certain point (you still have to climb the last part of the hill across the rocks and bush without a road or even a path). The walk down was nicer than the walk up as it was easier (except on the leg muscles). Mehmet found some interesting wild plants (possibly edible) and the weather continued to be idyllic.

Finally, we are here at the Monastery of Saint Thomas

Mehmet records that Alice did indeed make and thus erased two weeks of needing to do aerobics classes

Some Armenian writing on a stone outside of the church. Mehmet thinks this is recent writing. Alice is not so sure.

Another remnant of history outside of the church also with written Armenian

The interior - a little creepy. The columns are in good shape as is the dome but the place would benefit from a sensitive restoration.

View from the opening where the apse would have been. This was terrific - this is what the monks over a 1,000 years ago would have gazed at. Our car is down by the coast road which is visible in the distance.

The dome above the opening is still intact

The entry to the church is simple but sturdy. There is some decent carving in evidence.

Panoramic from the top looking north

Detail of the dome which is half uncovered and has bushes growing from it. It shouts "Please restore me!"

A selfie with the rarely seen church in the background

Another panoramic, this time looking east over the lake. The monks had quite a vantage point.

We start on the way down - a triple selfie!!

Randy walks carefully along the rocks on the hike down

Mehmet finds something natural of interest - some kind of berry or nut. He missed his calling as a food forager.

He spots another but harder to get natural delicacy

After the steep rocks the meadow was a relatively easy amble for us. Our car is abandoned way down by the coastal road.

A view on the way down. We saw evidence of animal grazing on our hike, both up and down. Probably goats and maybe cows.

We entered the car and found we could navigate the dirt road relatively easily to the now seeming main road of the gravel road back to Altinsac and onwards. We stopped to see a goat herd and enjoy the views out to a mysterious island. Mehmet and Alice discussed at length what island this could be and the answer was not resolved until the next day when, after consulting with the internet, it was identified as Kus Island (Bird Island), a bit further into the lake than Akdamar Island. This is also known as Arter Island. What is interesting is that we could see there were at least two ruined structures (presumably monasteries) on the island but this island and its structures are not mentioned anywhere in any guidebook we saw. Worn from our climb we were happy that the rest of the day's planned activities were essentially done from the car.

Mehmet tries to pet a goat

But they all hurried away

The mysterious island (later identified as Kus Island) in the foreground (dark) with Akdamar Island behind it, with the mainland with the mountain range behind that. Behind those high mountains lies Bahcesaray.

The other big target of our day's adventures was the small town of Bahcesaray (literally, garden palace). Mehmet found information about this remote place in one of our guidebooks (Rough Guide probably). Formerly, reaching this area was very difficult as the road was unpaved and closed for about seven to eight months of the year. However, a paved road now exists (still closed in winter) and the travel is not hard, though there are plenty of hairpin turns with no guardrails. Bahcesaray lies southwest of Van (between Van and Tatvan but south of the chain of mountains that ring the southern shore of Lake Van. The road starts with a high meadow area of great beauty then climbs into the mountains. Other vehicles are scarce. The highest part of the road is the highest paved road in Turkey (and that is saying something) and is well above the treeline. We stopped there to view the glacier (but only briefly as it was really cold).

At the top of the road to Bahcesaray

The peaks were pretty stark

Randy makes a snowball (or an iceball) from the glacier

Mehmet was impressed by the largeness of the glacier. It was pretty dirty too, as can be seen.

Our tough little Ford Focus gets a work out on the mountain roads

Rugged beauty

We wended our way down into Bahcesaray, a good sized town. This being Friday, there was a religious event going on near the center of the town with speakers. Men congregated around with the women viewing from an adjoining two story building. We were hungry and found that there are six restaurants in Bahcesaray. We were taken to one - a typical "Home Cooking" one where you eat what has been prepared that day. Alice and Mehmet had beans and rice and stewed eggplant while Randy ate chicken stew. The food was plentiful and very good. Mehmet made friends with the two men at the adjoining table. One invited us to his home but we had to decline as it was getting late (it was about 4:30 PM when we finished lunch). Bahcesaray is a friendly place with a fast flowing mountain stream through the middle of the town. Sadly, like so many other areas of Turkey, people just throw garbage anywhere including this lovely stream. There are no hotels in Bahcesaray and the few restaurants are really for locals (no one speaks English and our restaurant had no usable bathroom). In other words, tourists are very rare. That made the time there extra special. But, the main attraction is the drive to and from the place.

The main street of Bahcesaray, paved nicely with bricks

The school girls were happy to have their photo taken

The fast flowing and undoubtedly very cold mountain stream that runs through the town

The religious event going on next door from the restaurant - men below and women seated above (just above the sign)

The waitress with her day's selection of food

The yummy soup - we earned this meal after our exertions on the quest for Saint Thomas

Mehmet chats with his new friend at the table next to us

Mehmet likes his beans and rice (the rice in this part of Turkey is all illegally smuggled Iranian rice which is purported to be superior to Turkish rice. Certainly, it has longer grains.)

Randy enjoys his chicken stew with rice and an ayran (Turkish yoghurt drink)

Randy and Mehmet on the main drag of Bahcesaray

A look at the shops and tea places

A final view of Bahcesaray - for this town, it is not the destination but the journey

We continued on the road (which now had some unpaved stretches) towards Tatvan. We stopped to view an old Ottoman bridge. The scenery on this part of the road (the western part) was no less beautiful though it was not so mountainous. There were many remote villages including some clinging (literally) to the sides of steep hills. It was really wonderful!

The restored historic bridge just west of Bahcesaray

A remote hillside village between Bahcesaray and Tatvan. Almost like an Italian hilltop village but much more primitive and secluded.

We drove through Tatvan at dusk and headed to Ahlat, a village some 45 minutes away on the north shore of Lake Van. We had intended to see the extensive Selcuk tombs but it was too dark for that. We scoped the village out and headed to our hotel at a nearby town called Adilcevaz. This had a two star hotel which was very cheap. It was acceptable for comfort and had great WIFI. We went to the town center for pide around 9 PM and enjoyed that before retiring. After the wonders and activities of the day, we all slept well.

The delicious cheese pide in Adilcevaz

Randy and Mehmet shared a meat pide and ate some of Alice's cheese one as well. We closed this place down at around 9:15 PM.

Our comfortable twin beds (better than the smallish double bed). Randy makes use of the excellent internet.

View from our room out towards Lake Van. Adilcevaz is on the north shore of the lake.

In a trip of superlatives, this day was probably the best. We were far off the beaten track and the objects of our efforts were worth it. Nature, history and contemporary culture all combine in an interesting and memorable whole. Without an able driver (Randy) and a fearless and Turkish speaking guide (Mehmet) we couldn't have done it. Thank goodness we had both and were able to experience this day that none of us will forget!