Far Eastern Turkey - The Beauty of the Lake Van Region - Part 4 - Mount Ararat, Igdir, Muradiye Redux and Van Redux

Our last day in the Van area was sunny and cool to begin.  We looked our side balcony and were rewarded with a tremendous sight of Mount Ararat, also known as Agri (Pain) Dagi (Mountain).  This "mountain" is actually a dual mountain with the "Big Ararat" the highest mountain in Turkey and the "Little Ararat" next to it.  Both are volcanic with the big one blown off while the little one's cone is in tact.  While most people concentrate on the big Ararat, we found the little one quite impressive with its perfect volcanic shape standing next to its big brother.

The big Mount Ararat as seen from our hotel balcony in Dogubeyazit.  The early morning sky would not stay perfectly clear for long though.

The breakfast at the Hotel Grand Derya was satisfactory and we checked out and jumped in the Ford Focus.  Mehmet had mapped out a tour for us that would take us around the north side of the Ararat mountains.  He was also interested in visiting the Armenia border and perhaps the Azerbaijan border as well.  This area is the confluence of Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Iran.  Within an hour or two you can reach all border crossings by car.

Leaving Dogubeyazit with a view of big Ararat starting to cloud over

A closer look at this natural behemoth

We drove on the good road that went by the yayla pasture lands.  There were assorted buildings and tents along the way where the animals (and people) shelter during the warm months.  The views of both Ararats started off clear but quickly clouded over especially over the small Ararat.  After soaking in the views, we headed to the nearby small city of Igdir.  This place seemed much more modern and inviting than Dogubeyazit and therefore would be a better place to stay when touring the area.  We reserved this knowledge for our next visit.

View from the north side towards big Ararat with the pasture lands in the foreground

Another view from the north

The tents of the summer grazing grounds (yayla) which house the beasts (cows, sheep, goats) during the nights

Mehmet and Randy peruse the volcanic rock northeast of Dogubeyazit

A view across the plain towards Igdir.  Igdir is much warmer than Dogubeyazit and has farm areas.

Mehmet and Randy on the road with the big Ararat in the background.  Randy pocketed a small volcanic rock which is now in our living room.

Some of the grazing animals in the green fields.  This area is a dry climate and only in the spring is it alive with flowers and fresh grass.

Zoom in on big Ararat

Another view shows the deep snow on this side of the summit

We stumbled in Igdir on this Sunday morning on a museum that turned out to be dedicated to the murders of Turks by Armenians during the early part of the 20th century.   Certainly the photos and the testimonials were tragic and pointed out that the terrible actions of that time contained aggression by both sides.  There were a number of Turkish families touring the museum.

The poignant mausoleum and museum at Igdir apparently has a counterpart in the Armenian capital of Yerevan

Mehmet before the mausoleum.  The museum lies beneath the monument.  Alice's finger is seen too but this was the only photo taken of this monument so we have to go with it.

A Noah's Ark replica lies in the yard of the museum in Igdir

One of the descriptions of the research into the atrocities

Detail of the monument / mausoleum

We next drove to the Armenian border.  This is along a small two lane road that runs through a very rural and beautiful area.  We stopped by the border where we were informed by the officer that the border was closed.  Apparently the border there was never open (or at least not for a long, long time).  In fact, as far we could understand there are no border crossings open between Turkey and Armenia.  Also, it is not possible to fly directly from one country to the other.  It is hoped in the future that relationships between these two neighbors can improve to the point that travel between them flows freely.

On the road to Armenia

The border to Armenia - closed to all.  A river separates Turkey and Armenia in this area.

A large herd blocked our way to Aralik

The cute baby donkey with the sheep and goats

When we drove south towards the Azerbaijani border we could easily see Armenia including its capital city of Yerevan.  We could see churches, apartment buildings and other structures.  We went as far as Aralik, the last town before Azerbaijan.  We stopped at this backwater and strolled around.  It was a beautiful morning and people were very curious about us as they don't get many strangers there.

The main street of Aralik on a Sunday morning

One of the appealing vegetable and fruit stands

Detail of a tiled roof in Aralik

Walking around Aralik

Erdogan and the AK party makes its presence known in Aralik (on a fuchsia colored building no less!)

We drove back towards Dogubeyazit and again admired the perfect Ararat mountains.  We continued onwards towards Van stopping just north of Muradiye to see the "Devil's Bridge".  This ancient structure was in good shape (probably recently restored) and Mehmet and Alice were the only viewers (Randy elected to remain in the car).  We then drove into the town of Muradiye.  We were hungry and found a home cooking restaurant.   Randy was hoping for a western style toilet (he was dealing with an intestinal complaint) but we concluded there were none in the town.  We ate very well on rice, potatoes, stew, cacik and salad.  The entire bill for the three of us was about $12.  The best food deal of our time in Turkey.

Little Ararat from the road back towards Van

Another view of the enchanting little Agri Dagi

Big Agri Dagi is now mostly clouded

The natural beauty of the Ararat region is in full evidence

Both Ararats together with the big one (on left) a little cloud covered.  What a magnificent sight!

The sign for the Devil's Bridge just north of Muradiye (but south of the waterfalls)

The bridge - obviously restored

Mehmet in front of this historic bridge

Alice at the same spot

One of the main streets of Muradiye

Our lunch spot in Muradiye - a very tasty lokanta in the middle of town

Mehmet enjoys smuggled Iranian rice, bulgar pilav, cacik, coban salatasi, lentil soup - a feast!

Alice's meal included stewed eggplant as well

We reached Van on the road that ran along the eastern edge of the lake (with great views) thus accomplishing our goal of circumnavigating the lake.  We refueled at an Opet station (by far the best gas station chain in Turkey).  We then paid Opet to have the car cleaned to get rid of the dirt and gravel from its off road experience.  We were surprised to see large chunks of gravel dropping off of the bottom of the car and it was certainly good to get rid of these before we had to face the lady at the rental car company.

Mount Suphan and one of the Lake Van islands seen from the east side of the lake

Alice wanted to do some shopping and we stopped briefly in the city center but no shop with local goods could be located on this Sunday.  We went to the airport to catch our flight which left around 6 PM.  Mehmet ended up going through security three times - the first time they disallowed his honeycomb as liquid and he had to run back to the airline counter and check the honey.  Then, he left the souvenir walking stick from Tatvan at the counter.  So, he had to run back after coming through security to get that.  Finally, third time's charm, and he made it back through security with all accomplished just before we loaded the plane.

The flight back contained two surprises.  First, was a spectacular view of Mount Nemrut by air.  This Mount Nemrut is at the western end of Lake Van and is not to be confused with the more famous Mount Nemrut near Adiyaman which contains the historic statues at its top.  This Lake Van Mount Nemrut is a blown volcano that contains a lake within it.  We had hoped to visit this in person as it is supposed to be very interesting.  We ran out of time and had to omit it from the itinerary.  But this aerial view whet our appetite for seeing it on a future visit.

Randy and Mehmet on the Anadolou Jet to Ankara are happy with their memories of this amazing trip

Mount Nemrut on the west side of the lake from the air.  The large lake in the volcanic blown cone is easy to see.

We then flew through a thunderstorm with quite a bit of turbulence.  We were in the back of the plane where the ride is rougher and a man a few seats away freaked out.  We did not understand at first what was happening - like, was he having a heart attack?  But, he had a panic attack and the flight attendants and medical professionals who happened to be on the plane calmed him down and took care of him for the rest of the flight.  When we landed in Ankara, they let this man deplane first before we all left.

Some summary thoughts of this four night trip to far eastern Turkey follow.  

This area proved to be much more beautiful than we expected.  There was a Switzerland quality to the combination of lakes, snow capped mountains, high grazing lands, remote farms and villages.  However, unlike Switzerland, this is a volcanic area (some still active).  It is also much less populated and much poorer.  

The people were all welcoming.  We never felt any threat or even unfriendliness.  Since tourists are rare away from the main sights of Akdamar, Isak Pasa and Ahlat, we were met with curiosity and hospitality.  

Most of the historic areas are memorable - many are in near ruins (but authentic), while others have been over restored (Van Kale, Isak Pasa) with only a few restored properly (Church of the Holy Cross on Akdamar).  There are so many more sights to see that we could not find time to visit.  In fact, the area deserves a week or two of intense exploration.  There are some on line resources which describe these hidden gems and a four volume detailed work on the archeology and architecture of eastern Turkey by T. A. Sinclair. 

Outside of Van the area is not well set up for western visitors.   Tatvan has some decent hotels but not much else.  In between Van and Tatvan you have to be prepared for good but plain restaurants and basic hotels.  Prices, of course, are quite reasonable.  The main roads are pretty good and our Ford Focus did fine.  However, to explore more properly a four wheel drive vehicle would be a big advantage.  A good GPS and detailed maps are necessities for off the beaten track travels, and a fluent Turkish speaker is almost required to gain information on directions, lodging, food, road conditions, etc.

We talked with so many Turkish friends and acquaintances and almost no one had ever been to the Van area.  There was some trepidation because of the recent past terrorism activities by the Kurdish PKK.  However, it seems now those issues are gone.  The region seems peaceful and open.  The nature, history and culture are unbelievably rich and deserve to be experienced.  Go to Van and see what is there - you won't be disappointed and you will be grateful to have encountered this incredible corner of the world.  We were and we are already planning our next adventure back!

Another shot of the dual Agri Dagi

Another shot of the crater of Mount Nemrut

A parting shot of Lake Van and its crowning volcano, Mount Suphan in the early May sunshine.  You must travel to this region and see some of Turkey's most wonderful wonders!